Section 1 below: Quick and easy way to mount rings and scope once base has been installed.
Section 2 below: Quick and easy way to eliminate reticle cant after scope has been mounted.
Section 3 below: How to remove a Conetrol-mounted scope if you are unfamiliar with the system and have no printed directions available.
Section 4 below: Step-by-step directions for mating ring parts that may have become mixed.

~~ 1 ~~

After you have attached the Conetrol base to your gun . . . . .
Here's the bare-bones on installing your scope with Conetrol projectionless rings:

1. -- Open only one ring box at first (which is the sure-fire way to keep from mixing ring parts).

2. -- Using only the halves of that single ring, hold one ring half at the front end of your scope's tube and the other ring half at the back end.

3. -- Position the scope in the ring halves so that it will be positioned as desired when you have a ring half located at each of the two ring holes in your base.

4. -- Carefully holding one of the ring halves in place, get the other ring half and the ring cap and finish installing this first ring on the scope tube. (See the instruction sheet for installing projectionless rings, which is in the ring box.)

5. -- Now, open the other ring box and install the second ring so it is positioned to fit into the remaining ring hole on the base.

6. -- Proceed to "Mounting the Scope" section of the instruction sheet packaged with your Conetrol base.

~~ 2 ~~

After you have a scope mounted on your gun and all Cone-Screws of the Conetrol mount
have already been tightened . . . .

Here's the easy -- and precise -- way to eliminate any reticle cant:

1 -- Loosen both cone-screws under the front ring and back the cone-screws about halfway out.

2 -- Using heel of hand, bump the loosened ring and scope in the direction of the reticle's cant. If the reticle is leaning left, for instance, you would knock the ring to the left. (This will make the ring turn on the scope tube so that it will be leaning with the reticle of the scope).

3 -- Bump the ring several times if necessary, until you notice a gap has appeared under the right side of the ring between it and the top of the Conetrol base. (The size of the gap will help you gauge how much correction has been made.)

4 -- Now go to the rear ring. Loosen the cone-screws and back both of them about halfway out.

5 -- Go back to the front ring (the corrected one) and tighten its cone-screws so that the ring is pulled down firmly and flatly on the Conetrol base top.

6 -- Finally, straighten out the still-loose rear ring by bumping it with heel of hand until it is again seated flat on top of the Conetrol base. Then tighten both cone-screws.

7 -- Repeat steps 1 through 6 if any cant of scope and reticle is still evident.

(Note: If you'd like, you can phone us for step-by-step help with any procedure.)

~~ 3 ~~

If you have a gun with the scope mounted in Conetrol's projectionless rings . . . .
Here's how to properly remove the scope and projectionless rings:

1. -- Unscrew about halfway all four cone screws in the sides of the Conetrol base.

2. -- Lift off the scope.

3. -- Press each ring firmly on the sides with thumb and forefinger while prying apart the split at the bottom with the blade of a screwdriver.

4. -- This will force the top of the halves together and thrust the ring cap off so that the ring halves can be easily removed from the scope tube.

~~ 4 ~~

Hints for mating the parts of Conetrol projectionless rings that may have become mixed:

1... A number is stamped on the very bottom of one ring half and not the other. If you get two numbers together or two no-numbers, those halves do not belong together. [For 1" rings, the number 4 stands for low (4/64"), the number 8 stands for medium (8/64") and the number 12 stands for high (12/64") rings.   For 30mm rings, the number 30 stands for low (3mm), the number 50 stands for medium (5mm) and the number 70 stands for high (7mm) rings.]

2... A cap-locating notch is ground at the top of one ring half and not the other. If you get two notches together or two no-notches, those halves do not belong together.

3... Hold the ring halves in position together and look closely at the top and bottom. Unless the width is exactly the same both at top and bottom, those halves do not belong together.

4... Each ring is bored before it is split. The Interior boring marks are generally discernible and should continue across the splits from one ring half to the other both at top and bottom when the ring halves are held in position together. If the boring lines do not coincide, those halves do not belong together.

5... In the finishing process the circular dovetail at the top of a set of ring halves is relieved fore and aft with a hand grinder so that the cap can be put on. This is done in a single operation with the top edges of the ring halves pushed together as if in position around a scope tube. If it is apparent that the halves of a split dovetail atop a set of ring halves held together were not ground at one and the same time, those ring halves do not belong together.

6... Circular machining marks are usually discernible at the top and/or bottom of each set of ring halves, which may change slightly from one ring to another. If such machining marks are discernible at either top or bottom of one half the same pattern should be visible on the other. On the other hand, if the cut is very smooth at the top or bottom of one ring half it should be smooth on the other. If such machining patterns do not match up, the ring halves do not belong together.

7... Once you have a pair of ring halves you know belong together, put on a cap and check for good fit. With locating notches of cap and ring-half together the fit should be precise, with the small flats at the front and back edges of the cap lining up exactly with the front and back edges of the ring. If the cap overhangs even slightly at the front or back, or on the other hand is not quite as wide as the ring, that cap does not belong with those ring halves.

8... If, say, you are sorting the parts of two rings and you believe you finally have the right cap on the right set of ring halves, try this acid test: temporarily switch the caps on the two rings to make sure. Sometimes a cap will seem just right on one ring and the fit of the cap on the other ring will look "good enough;  by switching caps you may get both rings suddenly just right.   Then you can know both rings have properly mated parts.